Shopping Trip: Camels on My Feet

Shortly before Coco returned to her regular life, we accompanied her on another shopping trip.We had already been to Zardozi's, a well known clothing, accessories and home furnishings emporium (complete with high-walled courtyard and armed guards). There I bought my pakool hat as seen in the photo with Johann, taken on the porch at Mercury House.

Swiss Sons of Different Mothers





On this day we were off to the leather shop, the glass shop and the tailor. The leather store is walking distance from the training location in Chicken Street. Jim and I were there to buy sandals and Coco thought she might buy a bag, if it didn't smell too much like dead something. Jim is a big fellow, 6' 1" and somewhere north of 280 lbs. Fair to say he dwarfs most Afghans. All around Shams' Market the street kids know him as "Mr. Big Show"! Of course there were no sandals in stock for a size 14 foot. He had to be measured for a custom fit. It's possible the leather crafter never before made bigger footwear. I, on the other hand, found a lovely pair of lightly detailed sandals in a natural tan camel leather. I had fun thinking of how, for years, I had smoked Camels and now I'm wearing camels on my feet. Jim would actually return twice for his new slip-ons, as they had to be let out even more on the second visit. Coco ultimately did not make a purchase.

Jim the Director on the Porch at Mercury House

Not so at the Herati glass shop on our way to the armored vehicle. In fact, Coco bought more than a handful of beautiful Afghan glassware pieces and returned for even more on the day of her departure. Mostly these were intended as gifts back home. I'll have some pics of the blue and green beauties when I make my purchases. After Coco they need to "blow some more"!

From there, on our retail therapy quest, we travelled to the tailor. Jim and I wanted to order sewn-to-fit traditional Afghan clothing. The ubiquitous men's garb of Southwest Asia, and indeed much of the Muslim world, is the Shalwar Kameez. It consists of loosely fitting, drawstring-waisted trousers (shalwar) and a long-sleeved, knee-lenghth shirt (kameez). Jim chose two suits in all cotton; one dark tan and the other gray, both with the ring-type collar. I picked a cotton version in the ever-slimming black with a fly-away collar. Once we were measured, and having payed in advance, we were told to return in two days. It would, in fact, be more than 5 days. Afghan time...Coco pressed into service a number of handy "male models" to help determine a size for a kameez as a gift. She was told to return in a few hours and it would be finished. Don't tell me a young, attractive woman can't get her way around here.

Mr. Aziz and Johann Outside the Chow Hall at Saturn House

When I finally got my new duds from the tailor shop, Johann, the Agribiz Guy (a Swiss native) and I made a grand entrance to dinner. Dressed in my local finery, Mr. Aziz, the Cook proclaimed my readiness to "walk in the bazaar". I may be starting to blend in.

Next up: No Straight Lines; AA in Afghanistan